View Full Version : 120 Degree Swash Plate
I have just finished building my Eco 8 and I am very happy with its overall performance.
I own a JR XP652 and would like to use its CCPM features.
I understand that I will need a 120 degree swash plate. Any one know where I can get one? My JR radio only supports 120 degree CCPM.
Is just me or is the standard main gear hub very poorly designed. I have stripped the plastic on two of them. Would I be right in getting an autorotation hub?
I got my swashplate from Sussex Model Center ,http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk (http://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk), I've also ordered several parts direct from IKARUS, which takes about 3-4 days to the UK.
[This message has been edited by NAC (edited 07-18-2000).]
The Autorotation hub is essential due to the fact that the motors used have a lot of torque when you try to turn them once the power is off - resulting in loss of teeth unless you power down ever so slowely..!
The only other thing you can do in the meantime is to set your radio so that the throttle trim at centre position = motor off, but at full up then the motor just turns. That way when you have positioned your heli for take off, slide up the trim, and then use the throttle as normal - when you throttle down, the motor will still be turning until the trim is also pulled down.
P.S. Make sure the 'Brake' on your ESC is switched off - that will cause you all kinds of problems..!
Thanks guys fir your help.
I have ordered the autorotation hub and should get it tommorrow.
Just one more thing. I am still a little bit confused about the swashplate.
I realise that the Eco 8 has a 90 degree plate, but I still don't really understand why 120 degree CCPM can't be adjusted to work with this model. After all the servos are driving the swahplate directly, or am I being dim!!
Once again thanks for your help.
I'm in the exact same boat. To make things worse, I'm completely new to to R/C and Helicopters and I'm having a hard time setting up the radio. I've pretty much been trying to figure these things out on my own (w/books and the Internet). I sent Sussex Model Centre an email asking if they offer a 3 x 120 swashplate for the ECO. I'll let you know if I hear something. Could a program be set up to make the appropriate changes?
[This message has been edited by pmdoran (edited 07-19-2000).]
I had the same problem, my radio did not support 90 CCPM. I believe it can be done using channel mixing (see http://www.heliguy.com/nexus/ccpm.html ) but I chose to buy the 120 swash plate for the other benefits that it brings.
1. Better control (even distribution of load/Control on the servos)
2. Plastic (breakable) ball links replaced with metal ones (being fairly new to helis this was a big seller).
It all depends on your transmitter, mine a Futaba Feild Force 6 didn't have a program for the kind of 90 degree CCPM the ECO uses, so I tried using a 120deg program.
The result was the swashplate did not move around the centre since the two servos that should have controlled the left/right cyclic also moved with forward/rear cyclic (as they should with 120deg CCPM) this gave a change in overall pitch (collective) with every forward/rear cyclic movement and that is bad!
This is all because the 90deg swashplate has the two side balls in line with the mast but with the 120deg swashplate the two forward connections are a little in front of the mast and need to move with forward/rear cyclic to maintain movement around the centre.
You will have to do some reading and see if you can get your radio to do what you want.
I have heard that people are trying to use the 90 degree swash with 120 degree mixing, but haven't actually seen any.
Don't want to 'rub it in', but the JR3810 (the radio of my choice) has both mixing options so I haven't yet had the need to upgrade to the 120! Although I can see a time when I will have to due to breakage / wear and tear. I have seen the metal swashplate, it is very nice if you have the cash - the head looks good too, where will it all stop?
I will have to experiment with the radio to see if I can alter the amount of travel and mix on the servos to achieve the desired effect.
It will be trial & error. If I manage a good comprimise I will post my findings.
Today I received my autorotation hub and what a difference it makes. Well worth my hard earned cash.
As for upgrading, I think it's inevitable.
All manufacturers produce kits to a budget, what they think is reasonable. If they offered all the extras at the start then the kits would be too pricey and people wouldn't buy them.
So as we go on we break parts and upgrade.
I also think, in my case anyway, that I blame inferior parts for my inability to fly better. So I upgrade. And guess what... I don't get any better :-).
Thanks for the info guys. You are a great help.
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