Ikarus Motor Care and Success!

[giheli]

Just a lengthy comment on motor care and the Eco 8:
The eco works small 19-21 turn motors to their limit so it is neccessary to maintain them with constant attention and vigor. The most important things you can do is keep the motor running as cool as possible. Wait between flights for the can to cool. It is a heat sink in itself. Change your motors brushes OFTEN! The brushes actually act as heat sinks in addition to providing current to the armature. The sides of the brush transfer heat by direct contact to the aluminum holder/cooling fins and to the copper wire to be dispersed where better tolerated. Short brushes result in higher temperatures at the commutator causing pitting, overheating of the armature turns which cracks the electrical epoxy wire insulation, and brush failure. Loss of power, magnetic field and irreversible commutator warping is the product.
I am taking the time to post this in response to reading numerous complaints about the Ikarus brushed motors. I too was forced to rebuild my sport motor as a result of my ignorance. This involved repairing the turns and trueing the commutator on a professional lathe. Since then I have had NO problems with my motor (15 h Flt time later). In all fainess,the Ikarus motors are built as well as any product of similar configuration, although their prices might be better.
I would like to suggest to the marketers at Ikarus to include a page with the motors they distribute oulining proper break in and maintenance..In english and german .. Bitte!

As per the suggestion of the e-heli community, the following suggestions should also be considered:

1. Remove the foil decal and clean the residual adhesive with nail polish remover or an equivalent. The finish of the motor chasis is actually quite nice. Otherwise the decal acts as an insulator. If anyone has temperature data from this modification please post it! I am betting it is pretty large.

2. Install a fan on the rear protrusion of the motor axial.. see Kevin's reply for details

3. Also pointed out is the availiblity of wrap-around heat sinks and heat transfer oil. Again, see below!

In Sum:
1. Run cool
2. Cool between runs
3. Change brushes aften (Only 5$ US)
4. Oil the motor bushings sparingly
5. Properly break in new motor or
new brushes by runing the motor
for 70 min at a very low voltage
with no load. Use break in drops!
6. Keep mechanism friction to a
minimum.
7. Clean out brush dust often and
invest in a 6 $ commutator
polishing pen.
8. Add a cooling fan.
9. Consider a wrap around Aluminum
heat sink
10.Definitely remove the Decal. Its
the fastest weight loss program I
know!

I would love to hear about any problems, anectdotes concerning these amazing DC motors. I would also love to hear more about the brushless systems. My discovery had been that an RC heli pilot is an electrician, engineer, and mechanic 5 times more than a flight pilot. I am thankful I enjoy the tweaking and tuning of these machines as much as I enjoy the flying.

May your cyclics run smooth and precise

Good luck to all http://www.ikarus-modellbau.de/ubb/images/icons/smile.gif


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[This message has been edited by giheli (edited 10-03-2000).]

[Kevin Murray]

Quick comment ?
.
JUST KIDDING gheli .
.
.
Your findings with run-in and brush maintanance are quite true. I use a brushed motor on my Concept EP.
.
I have two other tips to keep the motor cool. One is free the other is fairly cheep. To allow the motor to run a little cooler just remove the label. It allows air to hit all of the can. The label and adhesive "insulate" the can from the cooling air. No measurements, Just intuitive.
You can also get a heat sink from R/C cars. They slip right on. You can also use heat sink grease from Radio Shack to aid in heat transfer from the can to the heat sink.
.
I haven't flown my brushless ECO 8 yet, But if this thread is still active I'll post my findings after 5 or 10 hours of flight.
.
Kevin

[Tooly]

Here's another tip for the Ikarus motors. You've probably heard it already.

Get a prop adaptor, and stick it on the other end of the motor. To this, add a small fan of some sort. I use a CPU cooling fan. Make sure it all turns the right way.

I have the sport motor and it is never hot. Just comfy to touch..

[giheli]

Tooly,

Excellent call. I had read about this in the now famous Kurt Moraw Log book. I was wondering what people were using as a fan prop. Does it significantly reduce your flight times?

Giheli


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[giheli]

Kevin,

Thanks for the addendum (removal of the foil decal). I had done this before mounting in the chasis and forgotten all about it although admittingly I did it for weight considerations. None the less they use a Ni Cr Fe allow specifically to disapte heat which renders the sticker a silly white elephant. maybe it sells more motors? http://www.ikarus-modellbau.de/ubb/images/icons/smile.gif



[This message has been edited by giheli (edited 10-03-2000).]

[Tooly]

I don't think it reduces my flight time very much. It is only a small 35mm fan. Its just large enough to get some airflow over the brushes and motor can.

Good idea to remove the decal. I might try that.

By the way, i am curious what kind of flight times you guys are getting with the sport motors. I am running at least 11 mins hover each flight, on a pack of 2400's.