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| ECO - Piccolo Discuss all ECO - Piccolo related things right here. |
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#1
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Which Hornet blades does everyone use?
1) Main Rotor Blades (Carbon Fiber) Black Blades 2) Main Rotor Blades (White Fiberglass) I HAD a set of the Black Carbon Fiber blades, they lasted about a week. I had one blade break were mounted after only the third crash. Actually the crash was not even that bad now I only have one Hornet Blade. Was wondering if the Black are more fragile then the white ones. They are too expensive to keep breaking like this never hurt the tunning blades I have. Wondering which I should use next. Thou I do have one black one for a spare now! TIA David |
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#2
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The CF ones are much more durable. I think it was bad luck they broke on the 3rd crash. Did you drill out the blade holes? Or did you cut off the nubs on the roter head? I suggest you DON'T drill out the blades, that's ALWAYS where mine brake, right at the blade mounting point.
I just put some white ones on for the 1st time. I like them a lot, you can see the blades better in flight, it look cool [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/smirk.gif[/img] . But every little hit dents or dings the blades. They're much more fragile. |
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#3
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Yes I drilled out the holes on the Blades. Did not think of makeing the mounting stub smaller on the Head. I was considering CA'g a nylon or metal washer to the blades on the next set but then mounting screws might be to small with an extra washer.
Anyone have suggestion on the cheapest place to get a set. So far I have seen CFC Main Blade (Black Carbon) $34.90 From www.fxaeromodels.com & $36.20 From http://dreamhobbies.com/ Main Rotor Blades (Fiberglass white) $25.30 From www.fxaeromodels.com & $26.25 From http://dreamhobbies.com/ Was also going to order another set of Hornet Paddles have small stress marks from drilling them out. But since I have added the Flybar bearings my flybar is smaller and do not need the holes drilled out as much. OATIA = Once again Thanks in Advance (hey another Acronym) [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif[/img] David |
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#4
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I would consider staying with the Ikarus blades until you no longer crash. They are far more rugged than any other blade I have seen. Once you have stopped crashing, then upgrade to something less rugged.
I have flown the Hornet blades and I liked them. But frankly, the cut and leading edge weighted Ikarus blades are pretty darn good. |
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#5
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Or you could try my carbon fibre blades [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/smile.gif[/img] They're moulded differently to the Hornet blades and are much more durable, even more so than the stock Ikarus plastic blades. They aren't hollow and don't need weights - they're flat plate airfoils like the plastic blades. You can hit them into things all day long and they will just keep going - that's why I made them in the first place.
If you'd like more info please see my website, address below. |
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#6
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I recommend the CF blades. Although I also have a couple of sets of white glass Hornet blades, they are too easily destroyed by any impact at the speed of the Orion motor. I agree with Paul. I wouldnt even use the Orion/Hornet blade setup untill you can fly without hitting anything. The crashes with this setup are not nearly as damage free. Also, if using the white blades, you can smear a thin line of epoxy along the edges to reduce damage without really affecting performance. Those white blades are indeed very fragile - but they look great w/ the Hughes body!
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#7
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Yeah... stick with the stock blades if you crash. They move so slow you can almost count them going around, but that's good for a crash, and it doesn't fly too bad with them.
Hey Robert.... Do your CF blades increase rotor RPM? I think you should design some like the MS ones with less pitch if you havnen't yet, then I'd buy them from you for sure. [img]/ubbthreads/images/icons/wink.gif[/img] |
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#8
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I had the opposite experience. The CF blades shattered on an impact, while the FG blades were barely touched.
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#9
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Robert's blades can be re-pitched, he has instructions how to do this, and recommendations on the best rev range.
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#10
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Thanks for the advice folkes. I usally can fly 2 or 3 battery without crashing or comming close. Then I could not get it off the ground, motor (310 was over 160f degrees after one flight). switch to 295 and it was hot also with no real power. So I got the Orion motor and Hornet blades first 3-4 flights were great had to re-trim everything and had 2 minor crashes during the trimming but was getting 8+ minutes of flight (3 more then before) Then the tail acted up started piorette (sp) and I powered down since was only about 4-6 inches off the ground and blades hit the kitchen table and pieces of one blade(where it mounts) went everywhere. I was shocked because the power was off (& i have a oneway mod). This looked like it was going to be a very light / easy crash. Maybe just a weak blade. (probably a friday after noon or early Monday morning batch)
I think I need to move to a big place to practice, before my 310 went I was starting prioettes(sp) and was hoverng up to 60+ degress on both sides from tail . I have had trouble ever since. No lift, blades breaking, cracked tail boom. I think most was just wear and tear of crashing while learning before. Robert I wanted your blades but with the motor going did not have the funds. Now I think I might have to use the tunning blades I have and retrim again or send some cash your way. Either way I think I am going to end up sending you some business. Thanks again everyone for your help. David Standard Piccolo Orion Elite Modified Motor 8T Tunning Blades and One good MS Hornet Blade Hornet Fly Bar Paddles MIA Landing Gear Head Stiffener Mod, Ball in Swashplate Mod Delrin Shaft Collar (Much better then silicone tubing!) Hitec Focus 4, Hitec Feather Receiver (4ch) Piccoboard Plus w/HH Module (new FET & Schotky diode). Thanks to Paul for the repairs. JMD Canopy AUW (All Up Weight) 282g with Canopy and 7cell nimh Battery Orion Motor AUW (All Up Weight) 274g with Canopy and 7cell nimh Battery G-310 Motor AUW (All Up Weight) 265g with Canopy and 7cell nimh Battery G-295 Motor 1st flight on Orion motor after fine tuning 8:25 OGE another 1min+ IGE. Homemade modifications: Rear Skid from Picture Frame Hanging Wire Thicker rear Fin (from Paper Plates) helps keep Wire from bending too much. |
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