Piccolo Pro Building Question

[jerrysimon]

Well now fitting the servos [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

Anyway I notice that the collective head instructions say to fit double bearings in the arms that hold the blades.

I notice when I did this the blades to not not fit in, up to the mounting holes ? They do if you only fit one bearing ?

Is this correct ? Have they made an error in the instructions/parts provision ?

Regards

Jerry

[reflex]

Two bearings do fit.
but quite tight to get them in
Only about 1mm gap between the blade and screw.
btw Jerry was a CRP tail support in your kit ?
it's shown in my instructions but not found in my kit. [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]
Paul

[jerrysimon]

Paul,

I need to go and check again but mine definately don't fit. With one bearing there is about a 1mm gap between the hex screw head and the blade.

No the tail support is an extra I think. Someone mentioned it here before.

I am still trying to devide whether to put my Orion or Astro 010 in the Pro. The problem is my 010 is in my FP Pic and it is running beautifully do I am lothe to disturb it.
Not sure if it's even worth bothering with the stock motor ?


Regards

Jerry

They do fit...I had the same problem. Get them in until they rest in.

You realy have to shove the bearings in. They should go almost to the end.

There was no boom support in mine. I'm going to try it without to begin with, then bodge something if it needs one...

Jerry, I had the same problem with the bearings, and was being quite careful. Although it looks like they are properly seated, they need to be very firmly pushed into the blade grips.

Put a philips in the bearing and tap it gentally.

I'd go with the Orion but the stock motor will work fine even on 8 cells.

[jerrysimon]

Thanks guys you were right. The philips screw driver and a light tap did it Ian [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

It's a good job as before with only one bearing the blade arm went right up flush against the main head which meant it would have been a friction joint and the baldes would have been a few mm shorter in diameter.

What a great place this is for help [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

I have another question on a different post re CP setup if you could take a look.


Regards

Jerry

[soundman]

Jerry, here's some info that I grabbed when I was setting up my cp piccolo...... I couldn't find you're other question - so I hope this helps:

Quote from Anks:

You need to adjust your throttle curve to keep the head speed consistant, you can do this by ear or using a tach. At zero degrees pitch you have little loading on the blades hench the head can spin more freely as you increase pitch the motor has to work much harder. Heres an example of an Orion 8T throttle curve. Pitch range in normal mode is from say -3 to + 10, Hovering is at 3/4 stick with zero degrees pitch at centre stick.
0 40 50 85 100
An aerobatic, Idle up throttle curve with Inverted climbout at bottom stick, inverted hover at 1/4 stick, zero at centre and hovering at 3/4 would be like this
100 85 50 85 100.
This only is a rough guide and will require tweaking of course.



Quote From Paul?

Here's how I have my CP Piccolo set up....
I set the pitch range so that I have equal positive and negative pitch with center stick = 0 pitch. How much is hard to tell because it is beyond the ends of my Raptor pitch guage. You have to go by experimentation here and make sure you have sufficient maximum pitch to pull out of rapid descents. I allow the head speed to drop off a bit at full collective and 100% throttle.

I then set the throttle curve in IDLE1 so that I have my target 1700 RPM at all pitch settings until I run out of throttle. The idea is to hit 100% throttle as you hit maximum collective. However, my head speed does drop off a bit at maximum collective. This is easy on the Piccolo because you can do it while holding the heli. Use an airplane tach to set the head speed at zero pitch and then just set the other throttle curve points so that the head speed doesn't change. That's it for IDLE1.

Then, what I do is for NORMAL, I just copy the IDLE1 throttle curve to NORMAL and replace the 100% in point #1 with 0%. That's it for NORMAL.

Simple, isn't it? Set up this way, you can fly most simple manuvers in NORMAL. In fact, I rarely switch out of NORMAL since I have not tried agressive inverted stuff yet. This setup does make the collective more sensitive than a more conventional setup with limited negative collective in NORMAL, but it has the advantage of A) simplicity and B) no change in flight characteristics from NORMAL to IDLE1. I set up my Raptor the same way.



From Paul's site:

Collective pitch throttle curve setup
The following applies to the Ikarus version collective pitch modification but in general is applicable to any collective pitch setup.

It isn't really that hard to set up. Set your pitch servo and linkages so that the pitch goes from as much positive as the pitch slider will allow before hitting the hub to "some" amount of negative. The amount of negative is not critical if you do not plan on inverted maneuvers, but you should have some to ensure easy descents in wind. You want the servo travel to be as great as possible (to improve servo resolution) so you will probably want the linkage in the innermost hole. Set the pitch curve to 0, 25, 50, 75, 100. In other words a straight line using all the servo travel. That takes care of pitch.

Initially set the throttle curve to something like 0, 50, 80, 90, 100 and power up. If you do not have a reasonable revolution mix yet, hold the heli for the next steps.
If you are using the Futaba 8UAFS (or 8UHFS) this applies to you. Not sure about JR.
Bring up the throttle curve display, and apply throttle/collective until you are on point #2 (as in 1,2,3,4,5). Adjust the head speed for somewhere between 1500-1800 RPM using an airplane tach or your ear if you have a good ear. Advance the collective to the next point, #3, and do the same.... adjust the throttle curve at point #3 for the same head speed as in the previous step. Repeat for step #4. You should be able to maintin the head speed to point #4, and you will probably run out of throttle by the time you reach the last point.
This will get you to the point where you can set the revolution mix and have a relatively constant head speed and try flying.

Note that the head speed will be at maximum on a fresh pack and drop slowly as the pack runs down. I have mine set to run 1800 RPM on a fresh healthy pack and it drops to about 1500-1700 RPM for the bulk of the flight. If you fly indoors under flourescent lights, you can verify 1800 RPM as the point where the shadow on the rotor disk seems to be stationary with four blades shown.

I have found that with the pitch arms set to the specified 4.5mm I need all the positive pitch that the slider will allow before it hits the hub in order to fly at the end of the pack. If you can stay in the air as the head speed drops past 1300 RPM (REAL slow in CP Piccolo terms) you have enough pitch. Another test is to try a full collective climbout on a fresh pack... it should be abrupt and fast with some head speed sag OK.

Again, I'll say that I don't know what your original question was...so hopefully it'll be answered in there somewhere - if not I'm sure it'll help someone else

[img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

[jerrysimon]

Soundman LOL

What a great board this is! People even answer your questions before you post them!!!


Regards

Jerry

[soundman]

Sorry - I've been having a bit of a piccolo day...tweaking the setup on my 3 babies.

Also it was all at hand.....I think there's a load more of it somewhere if you need it [img]/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]